In Samut Songkhram with it's multitude of sugar palms, planted in moats, constantly surrounded by water. A sweetener that is natural and unrefined, the best quality palm sugar comes from Samutsongkhram. It should be soft, pliable in the hands with a dense, velvety smooth texture. Rich and fragrant, full of character and extraordinary depth with a well rounded sweetness. Amongst the cooling shade of the coconut trees above, with machete in hand, a man climbs a simple bamboo ladder. Step by careful step on a piece of bamboo, to the very top, now he gets to work by cutting off the very tip of a fruiting bud, the zap starts to drip into the collection cylinders. It takes a few hours for the cylinders to fill up, wood shavings are also sprinkled on, to stop the sap from spoiling. The cylinders are taken back to a simple hut to start the process of turning it into palm sugar, first the liquid is strained through muslin, removing any impurities. It is then simmered over a very low heat, fueled by coconut husks for an hour or so, until the mixture start to become syrupy, it is then whipped to create a velvety smooth texture. Finally it is poured into muslin lined moulds, left to set, turned out and it is ready to be used.